Identifying and Describing the Structures of Textiles: Part 1
Part 1 covers the range of simple weaves and non-woven structures. We take a broader view of early textiles than the CIETA course and cover in addition linking and looping, twining, pile structures, and weaving to shape. Participants will learn how to analyse and record structures using samples of different fabrics, a standard form and agreed terminology (CIETA supplemented by Emery and Seiler-Baldinger). They will also be introduced to different formats of weave diagram.
Types of looms and how these may affect fabric structure will be discussed and some simple weaving undertaken to give a proper understanding of the process. Our aim in particular will be to increase the confidence of participants in their analytical skills, needed especially when faced with unfamiliar or poorly-preserved surviving textiles.
The specific learning outcomes for Part 1 are:
The following topics will be covered in sessions of varying length:
For further details please contact both Part 1 tutors:
Hero Granger-Taylor, [email protected]
Ruth Gilbert, [email protected]
Types of looms and how these may affect fabric structure will be discussed and some simple weaving undertaken to give a proper understanding of the process. Our aim in particular will be to increase the confidence of participants in their analytical skills, needed especially when faced with unfamiliar or poorly-preserved surviving textiles.
The specific learning outcomes for Part 1 are:
- identify basic weave structures and their variants
- record structures in a standard format
- use internationally-agreed terminology
- explain the relationship between looms and fabric structure
The following topics will be covered in sessions of varying length:
- The three basic weaves: tabby, twill, satin; distinguishing warp from weft.
- Recording weaves as diagrams and drafts: the various conventions and their advantages. Methods of magnification, with and without additional light.
- Variations on tabby (extended tabby).
- Variations on plain twill and plain satin.
- Completing standard fiches/forms.
- Weaving before heddles a): netting, linking and looping; sprang.
- Weaving before heddles b): warp and weft twining.
- Simple braiding; tablet-weaving.
- A brief look at different methods of warping and creating the sheds.
- Colour effects: contrasting bands and stripes, combinations of these, ikat.
- Tapestry.
- Simple methods of photographing textiles and weaves.
- Patterns using shafts: twill variations, block damask, warp floats/weft floats.
- Patterns made with supplementary weft but no figure harness.
- Weft pile techniques; looped and knotted, uncut and cut.
- Patterns made with supplementary warp but no figure harness.
- Plain velvet. Plain gauze.
- A brief look at the range of scientific tests that can be applied to early textiles.
- Selvedges, starting borders and finishing borders. Weaving to shape.
For further details please contact both Part 1 tutors:
Hero Granger-Taylor, [email protected]
Ruth Gilbert, [email protected]
